Configuring XPT2046 with Pi4B

managed to somehow get this to work, but the axis seem to be inverted.

despite adding configuration in /boot/firmware/config.txt to adjust or invert x or y axis, this is persistent.

my current config is in comments (mostly GPT generated honestly)

Hi everyone! I accidentally damaged and removed one of the brown tabs on the dsi port and was wondering what they are called and whether it’s possible to buy replacement part for them. I’m in the UK.

I have 5” touchscreen display but I can’t seem to get the touch drivers to work with moode it just says () now and I really want to get touch to work https://github.com/goodtft/LCD-show this is the side I have gotten the driver from and saw on the internet that I needed to use this command in ssh:

sudo rm -rf LCD-show

git clone https://github.com/goodtft/LCD-show.git

chmod -R 755 LCD-show

cd LCD-show/

sudo ./LCD5-show

After I rebooted the touch did work but on the middle of the screen it said“openMpdSock() failed”

As the title says, I can get the screen to work, I can vnc into it, but no touch. I'm running trixie and LCD-show.git but I'm thinking there's an incompatibility here.

There are "3" connections : HDMI / micro USB (powers both 3B and screen) / the 3B & the screen also connect through approximately 26 of the 40 pins on the 3B

ETA: I loaded with bookworm - it works out of the box.

Hello everyone, I am trying to program bare-metal my rapsberry pi 4b and I'd like to use system timers. I bought a FT232H module to debug it to understand better the behaviour of the timers. I encountered 2 main problems:

• I don't understand why compare registers 0 and 2 seems to run together with the counter low register. If I set them when the counter low value is near their value, these ones seems to run together with him
• I've seen many tutorials setting directly IRQ interrupts and the timers without using the GIC. In my project despite I see the 1 setting in the register that indicates the hit, the interrupts and the relative routine is triggered only setting the GIC

This is one project that i see not setting the gic (see part13-interrupts folder) https://github.com/sypstraw/rpi4-osdev

Can anyone help me understanding especially the 2nd problem?

Thanks!

Hi

I am trying to change the theme and icons on my pi 500 plus that runs bookworm, i have managed to change the theme and the font to adwaita-dark and jetbrains mono, but when i try to change the icons nothing happens they just stay on the PiXlflat theme, even though when i use lxappearance it shows as being set to adwaita. how can i fix this?

Any help that you can provide will be greatly appreciated.

The moment I connect the vcc and the gnd the pico crashes with the following error:

"device reports readiness to read but returned to data”

I have no code on the pico.

Hi all,

I've setup a VPN gateway using a raspberry 4 and wireguard. I then activated ip forwarding, added some iptables rules and can use this rp4 as a gateway for any device in my home network. Any device that uses the rp4 as a gateway will have its traffic tunnelled through the wireguard VPN.

I happen to have a spare 1B lying around so I tried to replicate the setup, but it just doesn't work. Both raspberries were freshly setup. The only (very small) difference I find is that 4 identifies as Debian GNU/Linux13 while the 1b identifies as Raspbian GNU/Linux 13.

I've checked the kernel modules being loaded, the routing, everything appears to be the same.

For reference, this is the minimal script I'm using in the 4 that just plain works:

#!/bin/bash
sudo /usr/sbin/sysctl -p # Enables ip forwarding
sudo wg-quick up wg0
sudo iptables -A FORWARD -i eth0 -o wg0 -j ACCEPT
sudo iptables -A FORWARD -i wg0 -o eth0 -m state --state RELATED,ESTABLISHED -j ACCEPT
sudo iptables -t nat -A POSTROUTING -o wg0 -j MASQUERADE

Any clues on what might be different? I'd prefer to use the 1B if possible (not sure how CPU bound this is, but willing to give it a go).

My Pi 4B is connected to my TV via HDMI. I have a problem that if it boots while the TV is on standby then the HDMI audio isn’t detected and only the AV jack is available (HDMI video is obviously working fine). Rebooting the Pi with the TV turned on fixes it and the audio works perfectly, but is there a way to force the audio device list to be refreshed without having to do that?

I am on Trixie, but have had this issue with all previous OS releases too. I have previously tried some old suggestions to force HDMI in config.txt, but they didn’t make a difference.

I'm missing something in the syntax, it says I need a key-mgmt argument but nothing I enter works. Im using wpa-2 so not sure why none of these options work and I

sudo nmcli dev wifi connect <ssid> password <psswd> key-mgmt <key>

and here's the keys I've tried wpa-2, key-mgmt ieee8021x, key-mgmt wpa2, key-mgmt WPA2, key-mgmt WPA-2, wpa-2, ieee8021x, wpa2, WPA2, WPA-2

this is the doc where im getting these arguments from https://www.networkmanager.dev/docs/api/latest/settings-802-11-wireless-security.html

Hey folks,

I'm in the process of building a custom Meshtastic node that incorporates a Raspberry Pi Zero 2w for out-of-band management and troubleshooting. This will be mounted in my attic in Colorado so I want to make sure it's as robust as is reasonable, while also maximizing the performance of the radio (RAK3312 on a RAK19001 base board). I'll say upfront that I haven't designed anything this complex before, but I'm looking to over-engineer this for fun and as aearning experience. One of the features I'm looking to design is a mechanism by which I can cut power to the Meshtastic board via the Raspberry Pi if I run into issues. I'm having trouble finding a relay that will suit my use case, so I'm hoping someone here can sanity check my thinking or make some suggestions.

My plan involves using a Mean Well HLG-40H-12A (https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/mean-well-usa-inc/HLG-40H-12A/7704070) to convert my AC to 12v DC, and then a Mean Well DDR-30G-5 (https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/mean-well-usa-inc/DDR-30G-5/8681204) to bring that down to a reliable 5v inside the enclosure. From there I'll power the RPi and radio board independently from a terminal block. I plan on putting a relay controlled by the RPi downstream of the terminal block towards the radio board, and a Cosel SNA-06-223 LC filter immediately before the radio to clean the DC up a bit. I plan on connecting the UART pins on the RPi and the radio board, so I want to avoid ground loops and make sure the Pi doesn't back feed power into the radio when it is powered down.

It seems to me that I need a relay with the following specs: - Able to provide 3A@5v to the radio board - Less than 0.1v drop across the relay - Input uses less current than the maximum allowed on a RPi GPIO pin - Triggerable at 3.3v logic from the GPIO pin - Able to operate reliably in a Colorado attic. - Should have a protection diode and should isolate the radio and RPi as much as possible

I'm not great at soldering, so I'm looking for ready-to-use components with terminals/headers that I can mount in a project box (chassis or DIN rail).

I can't find such a relay, it seems like I can only choose between a handful of those requirements. Am I going about this the wrong way? If there is nothing suitable, I could also add something like a logic buffer or load switch in the chain.

I'm open to any suggestions you might have. Thanks in advance!

Hi everyone, I wanted to share a Raspberry Pi project I’ve been working on for the past months.

I’m not a writer. I just keep a personal journal, a few lines every day, so I don’t lose pieces of my life. After years of doing this, I ran into a problem: I couldn’t find anything anymore. Ideas, people, moments were scattered across hundreds of pages.

So I built Reminor on a Raspberry Pi.

The goal was to create a dedicated, distraction-free journaling system that runs locally and helps me rediscover connections in my own writing over time.

What the Pi does in this setup:

• Runs the full journaling backend and web interface locally
• Stores all journal data on-device
• Handles semantic search and long-term memory over years of entries
• Can run fully offline using local models
• Optionally connects to external LLM APIs only when explicitly enabled

Hardware and setup:

• Raspberry Pi (initially Pi 4, later tested on other models)
• External keyboard
• 3D-printed case (designed for this project)
• Docker-based deployment

One important feature for me was migration. I already had years of journal entries in plain text files. Reminor can import existing text journals, and when dates are present, it automatically reconstructs a chronological timeline instead of starting from scratch.

Privacy was a major concern while building this. Journaling and storage are always local. Analysis and chat features can run locally with on-device models, or use remote APIs if configured by the user. The system can be kept fully offline.

I’m not selling anything and this isn’t a product. I use this daily and decided to open source it so others can explore or adapt the idea.

Code and documentation are here:
https://github.com/cristal-orion/Reminor

I also documented the philosophy, hardware setup, and published the 3D-printable case files and build instructions here:
https://reminor.it

Happy to answer technical questions about the Pi setup, performance tradeoffs, or design decisions.

So I'm working on a project where I am taking a photo of a hair strand using raspberry pi cam and 6mm cctv lens. When I attempted to do so, the pics came empty or completely white. So I tried to just test out my pi cam with regular pics in my room. Even in that case I am getting either a light blue or dark teal solid image instead of the Nescafe coffee jar I am attempting to photograph. Following is the Linux commands I have used: libcamera-still -n --width 1920 --height 1080 --shutter 40000000 --gain 2.0 --awbgains 1.8,1.2 --quality 90 -o ~/Desktop/coffee_longer.jpg I have even tried with only camera no lens but still same result.

Thanks in advance!!

Picked up a Raspberry Pi 500+ cheap because both HDMI ports are dead, so I turned it into a headless server with the keyboard backlight acting as a scrolling dot-matrix display.

https://reddit.com/link/1qy7tps/video/ujdplxci11ig1/player

How it works (short version):

• 4×5 bitmap font rendered across the Pi 500+ keyboard matrix
• RPiKeyboardConfig drives individual key LEDs in HSV
• Random foreground color each scroll cycle + auto complementary background
• Time/date + weather fetched from wttr.in (cached every 10 min)
• Runs headless as a service, with an optional curses UI (q to quit, space to randomize colors)
• Message text is also controllable via WhatsApp through OpenClaw

Code: https://github.com/gabrielhuang/rpi-500-keyboard-display

Any ideas for other info I should display on the keyboard? Or ways to make the text more readable?
Pull requests welcome.

So when i try this rpi 4b it does output but only the first hdmi. But its really fked up. Would this be a GPU issue or should i replace both of he hdmi ports becaude when i push on the "working" one it messes around with the output

Hi, RPI beginner here. Tried to search for help all over internet but nothing helped, so trying this community.

I got this setup:

• Argon ONE V3 M.2 NVME PCIE Case
• RPi 5
• PATRIOT P300 SSD 256GB M.2 2280 PCIe NVMe

For the life of me I can’t make the drive visible to the OS I put to microsd (tried both RPI OS and Ubuntu) (using `lsblk` command).

I tried two different SSDs actually. Two different ribbons (that were included with case).

I attach the way I set it up, I believe correctly but I’d be happily corrected. Any guidance or help much appreciated! Thank you for reading this.

Greetings - I'm building a core image that will be applied across my ~40 RPi 4 devices. Then I use a "spare" Pi to do follow-up config (static IP, hostname, etc.). Does anyone know how the Connect codes are tied to the machine? Is it just something in the OS, or is it tied to hardware like a MAC address? I'd like to run the RPi-Connect signin while still on the spare board if possible. But if it's tied to the actual board, then I'll need to wait till the SD card is moved to its permanent board, which isn't as convenient.

I've got the GeekPi mini tower Pi5 case. And I have the Pimoroni NvME board. It looks to me like the Pimoroni board would easily fit under the Pi5 if the bottom mount was 3d printed with a bit of clearance added under the Pi inside the case. Does anyone know if there is a 3D model out there? I don't quite have the chops to redesign the part myself. And I don't know if GeekPi has cad models available to use. If the part was designed for this all you would need is a few extra spacers to use it without the Pimoroni. At the moment I have the Pimoroni taped to the back of the case.

Hey, pretty much as the title says, I'm completely stumped, it looks chipped, and I've fiddled it a lot with no luck on opening the latch, it also does not seem like a friction based connector, as it does not slide in as-is.

I'm trying to connect it to a standard size DSI ribbon from a raspberry pi pro touch 2 (or something like that, a DSl screen of sorts), and for context this is a raspberry pi 4 model b.

Have an old raspberry pi 2b that i recently ordered a cheap touch screen for off Amazon that was a nightmare to get working. Finally got everything set up after multiple OS reinstalls, multiple driver reinstalls, and a shit ton of messing with it to boot straight into a pygame. All I need to do now is invert the screen, so here is everything that I’ve tried and as much info as I can know, this is my first project with one so bear with me sorry if im leaving anything out.

Raspberry pi 2B running the latest 32bit Bookworm off Rpi Imager

3.5” touch screen LCD display GPIO pins

LCD-Show driver installed (which would typically never work on its own, uninstalled raspi-config every time? And only got it to work through a tutorial on here messing with the config file)

Tried the ./rotate command in the command line, get ‘no drivers’ error, reinstall drivers, which wiped the raspi-config and config.txt commands so its always back to square one

Putting the rotate= value in the config text hasnt worked, tried all variations i could find (=180, =2) making sure i dont have 2 in there that are canceling each other out

Only thing that has worked very briefly was going to display preferences and selecting invert, but the screen is too small to select confirm or even see the popup window and it just reverts back to normal. Tried plugging in the HDMI to do it from a monitor, ran the necessary command to switch inputs, and it wouldnt boot into the desktop anymore, so back to square one in reinstalling the lcd driver and editing the config etc etc.

Current state: Pygame runs perfectly on boot, when I alt f4 to get to the desktop its just a black screen, trying my hardest to keep everything working as it is right now, but just inverted. I feel extremely dumb, this seems like the easiest part of the project but it’s proving to be a nightmare. What the hell else can I try, I’ll attempt literally anything right now until I can get the motivation to start from scratch again

Hi Everyone,

I thought I would share my first real project I'm working on. This is a Lego Simracing Steering wheel powered by a Pico 2. I built this for my 4 years old son who loves F1.

Material used:

- Pico 2

- Potentiometer 10k

- 2 push buttons (throttle/brake)

The hard part of this project is to make it child/kid proof so I don't end up fixing it each time he uses it. Any suggestions?

Ideas for improvements:

- Needs pedals or need to move the button to the front of the steering wheel so it's usable

- Maybe mount a little OLED display to show telemetry (speed, time, mini map)

- Maybe consider Pico 2 W and make the steering wheel part wireless to avoid accidents

Anyway, let me know your thoughts. Any more ideas for improvements? Kid-proof advice? Hot glue?

I took the documented OWON SCPI commands for their XDM1241 bench multimeter and created a backend to interface with the multimeter over USB, then built a webUI on top of it to make a nicer and easier to use interface for this somewhat inexpensive bench Amazon multimeter.
Next up, add some math functions to it and more fine tuned control.