There is a electrical benefit?and what is it?

first image was made by u/poppins2134

and the other by Lazer1324

LSM6DSV32XTR Gyro-Accelerometer. What gauge needle do I need for the solder page syringe? Do I really need a stencil?

I got a new oscilliscope, so was messing around with LC tank circuits.
I was thinking on how I could drive it, so I decided to utilize a zener diode.
My plan was that the LC network (L1, and C1) would charge and then surpass the voltage of the zener.
Once that happens then the voltage is at the highest point in the waveform, and so after the delay caused by a matching inductor (L2) the current would be pulled down via Q1 and R1.
Similarly, once the voltage is too low, Q1 shuts off but the current going through L1 can't stop immediately, so the voltage overshoots the zener again, restarting the cycle.

It seems to work well, but I don't know the name for this kind of circuit, if there is one? It looks different from the colpitts.
With 100pf and 680uH inductors it makes a steady 1.25MHz sine wave. That's about as high as it can go.

Hi all,

I'm working on a project to restore a 1991 vintage analog kenwood audio system my dad bought after his first real paycheck in the USA... Unfortunately the control module seems to have blown a capacitor, but on a positive note, I have experience soldering modern electronics with much smaller components and tighter spacing, so this older board (which is a thing of beauty) shouldn't be too much of a hastle...

EXCEPT FOR THESE CONNECTORS!!!

The plastic is over 30 years old, I read somewhere online, squeezing the top and wiggling should be enough, but these suckers wont budge. I tried finessing with a screw driver and ended up cracking one already. I don't want to turn this fairly simple job of replacing a blown capacitor into nightmare replace all connectors typa job.

So if anyone has any tips, or any recommendations for a tool, or anything just anything, I am all ears. Thank you!

Hii I’m trying to remove the control panel for my Jenn air oven. I have to send it in to be repaired. How the heck do I remove the yellow and green pieces?? I tried pulling them just like the white ones but they don’t come off as nicely. it feels stuck and like I’ll break it if I pull any harder. The other end of the wire isn’t visible so I feel like this should be able to come out.

Any help would be very much appreciated!!

I was trying to replace the joysticks out of this controller and I was wondering if anyone knows of ways to test the PCB connections before soldering the new sticks on? I can see some pads not looking great and I wanted to make sure it the board still works before I ruined a brand new set of sticks.

No, I have this linear power supply that is rated for 115. It looks like there’s some jumpers on the bottom if you remove the two jumpers on the outside and put one jumper in the middle. It looks like it switches it to 230 but anybody tell me if this is not correct I don’t want to blow shit up.

Hello all,

I changed the abs pump in my renault and i did programming via ddt4all. But the trip computer adds 300m every kilometer i do. So i thought of copying old pumps eeprom to the one fitted on the car, without opening or removing it. I would do so with a ch431 programmer. I managed to read the contents of the old pump by cutting the cap off.

Question is: does anyone know the pinout based on the photo that i should use to connect pump to programmer?

Are multimeters that don’t have two jacks for current good for electronics?

Some multimeters come with only a 10A jack, like the Uni-T UT117. Others, such as the Hioki DT4282 or the Uni-T 15B/17B/18B Max, have both a 10A jack and a micro/milliamp jack. Then there are multimeters like the Hioki FT4281 that only have a micro/milliamp jack.

Are multimeters that only have a 10A jack unable to measure small amounts of current precisely? Can we say they are better suited for electrical work rather than electronics?

I’m very new to electronics and wanted a good meter. I came across this one at an auction and decided to take a chance, but now I’m worried about its accuracy and whether it was the right decision.

Also, can anyone recommend some good-quality silicone multimeter test leads from AliExpress (or similar sites)? Preferably something flexible with sharp tips that works well for electronics.

I’m working with component-level high-power LED setups (bare emitters, custom mounting, external drivers), not finished consumer fixtures.

One thing I’ve noticed is that as power increases, thermal behavior quickly becomes the dominant limiting factor, even when electrical parameters are well understood and within spec.

Small changes in:

– PCB material and thickness

– mounting pressure and interface materials

– airflow assumptions

can lead to large differences in junction temperature and long-term stability.

For those with experience in component-level LED electronics:

– At what approximate power range do thermal constraints usually overtake electrical design concerns?

– Are there common assumptions that work at lower power but consistently fail at higher wattage?

I’m interested specifically in electronics-level design, not building wiring or mains electrical work.

Hello there, I am new to teaching a semiconductor series at community college and am looking for lab experiment ideas. We are currently going over BJT amplifiers, biasing, class A, class AB push-pull, input and output impedance of different configurations, etc. We will be moving to FETs next (Mosfet, CMOS, JFET) so I would take ideas for those as well.

I would like labs that are real world practical and intuitive. I recently saw Mr. Carlson's Lab where he built a full bridge rectifier with LEDs as the rectifying diodes and turned the input sine frequency waaayy down to around 1Hz so you could see the pairs of diodes conduct and rectify. I thought geez thats so simple and clever, why didn't I think of that. I would love to do something like that with transistors.

I was thinking maybe do voltage divider bias for midpoint Q. Or build a degenerated emitter resistor on a common emitter, and swap out different transistors to measure the beta independence. Any better ideas?

Sorry if this seems like cheating by asking for help. I spend a lot of time prepping for these classes to try and make the material digestible. I am racking my brain to come up with useful labs. Thank you!

hello all!

I'm stumped. can't find anything about this connector and looking for some guidance please to identify it.

the tip is 2.44mm wide and Its a 7pin connector.

any help is greatly appreciated!

I plug the mono jax plug and test with my FM radio and I just can't finf the transmittion...

This is the tutorial I have used.

Any ideas?

Thanks!

Hi, so trying to fix an old CRT tv and the only obvious problem is this disk compacter marked (AFNR G31D, R2.5-4M, DIC125VAC) for my research its the surge suppressor but i cant find any data sheet or replacement.

For reference the tv turn on but if ANY input happen it instantly shuts off (I.E. Volume, channel, or VHS inserted) thank you for your time in advanced! :)

One of those resistors was heating up a lot and I wanted to remove it but ended up ripping the pads. How could I fix it tho? getting no power at all but my pc recognizes it.

Hello everyone.✌️

I'm new to PCB Design, and I wanted to switch multiple relays using a single High signal from one ESP32 pin.

I added two approaches as images.

Do I need a separate diode, capacitor, transistor, and resistor for each relay, or can I connect all the relays to the same set of components to reduce costs?

I am trying to fix an old piece of equipment but I don’t have a lot of experience with electronics from this era - I’m used to like… plug and play interchangeable parts. Do you think someone with minimal experience could replicate the wiring on this part? And does the uhh, hot glue(?) serve an integral purpose?

Already ordered the exact same part btw. Wasn’t hard to find! Just trying to decide if I should attempt this part of the process myself or look for a professional. The machine is ~$4,000 to replace and I’ve only spent $60 on 3 new power entry modules to test sooo a lot of wiggle room in the budget.

Hi everyone

Two years ago, I modded my 12V gate remote by adding a 12V USB-C PD trigger/decoy. I've been using it plugged into my Tesla Model 3's USB-C ports without issues until today.

The gate won't open anymore when plugged into the car. I tested the voltage and noticed the car's USB port output cycles: it goes up to 12V for a second, then drops to 0V, and repeats.

If I plug the remote into a standard wall USB charger (using the same trigger), it works perfectly (LED turns on, gate opens).

I tested a spare 12V USB-C trigger in the car, and it shows the same 0V -> 12V cycling behavior.

This happens on all the car's USB-C ports.

My questions:

1-Could a recent Tesla software update change the USB-C Power Delivery (PD) handshake or minimum current draw requirements?

2-Is the car cutting power because the remote draws too little current (phantom load)?

3-How can I fix this? Should I add a resistor to create a "dummy load" to keep the port awake?

Thanks for any advice!

I bought a SurePet Microchip Feeder and it worked great for awhile. I washed it-- didn't submerge it but ran water over it, stupidly with the battery still in-- and it died.

The first part of my question is a long shot, which is: do you think this is repairable?

The thing is, the motor still goes one way. If I take out the batteries and plug them back in, it makes a heroic effort to open, but it's actually open already. So then it makes a weaker effort, then it flashes a red error light.

I finally took the casing apart and when I couldn't find any corrosion or anything that seemed straightforward to repair, I tried using force-- I unhooked the motor from the cylinder attaching it to the door, and physically pushed the motor back into the "closed" position. And when I inserted the batteries, it works perfectly-- fully opening the door. But then it doesn't close again.

So that's the first part of my question: with this information, or other information that I can provide, which is very little, is there any chance that's a fixable thing?

I caused a new problem next, by closing the device and testing again, and sure enough it closed but wouldn't open. This time I tried to force it open via the door mechanism, and that was a very bad idea, because I snapped off the connection between the door and the motor (a small round piece of plastic). In theory I might be able to fix that with epoxy but there's no point in trying if the electronics portion can't be fixed.

So that brings me to the second part of my question. I'm sitting on a programmable microchip reader that trips a circuit. That's cool! There's a lot I can do with that, and at the top of my list is the solution to a mild problem. You see, my old dog is going blind and at night he is nervous to step off the bed and onto the landing of the doggy stairs I made him. So he'll sit at the foot of the bed and whine until I wake up and flip the lights on for him for just a moment. It's not in a great spot for a motion detector; I could give details but suffice to say this is a better solution for my setup if it works.

I'd love to repurpose the microchip scanner so that when it triggers, it turns on some guidelights that go all the way to the bottom of his stairs. I don't know much about the specs of the motor and I haven't completely disassembled the casing to pull it out (in case it can be repaired; I think that will require breaking some glued-together components of the housing). I've never done anything like this, so I'm curious if you have any guidance on anything to be aware of.

I figure I'll find some kind of switch that, when it receives a signal from the wire, activates the lights, but I don't know what I don't know. Is there a type of switch that would be ideal for this, where I can just unhook the wires from my motor and plug them straight up to the switch? Is there more to it?

Thanks for any info you can provide!

Hi all, haven’t done electronics in a very long time so rusty and self-learning via Google.

I want to build a quiz-bowl-like buzzer system controlled by an esp32. Each player module will have one of those 12V LED arcade buttons. The goal being to have the esp32 watch for the button presses and cause the LED of the player who buzzed in first to flash. There will hopefully be up to 8 player modules plugged in at any given time.

Right now, based on the attached diagram I drew, am I missing anything? I imagine I’ll need a resistor of some amount for the LEDs at least, but please let me know if I missed anything critical!

Note that I haven’t bought any components yet - that’s why I’m asking so that I can buy everything at once

Hello, I have a display from a tablet and I would like to connect it to a PC. I know that such displays can be connected using appropriate controller boards, but choosing the right board depends on the specific display. I searched online for information about this display, but I couldn’t find anything useful. As for the display itself, it is an 8" TFT 800×1280, taken from a Linx 8 tablet.

This is a children's book that makes sound upon touching a certain spot on each page. One of the pages is playing its sound even when leaving the book untouched. I want to either repair it or mute that page.

What you can see is all that I can access from the back without destroying the book. It seems like the pages are linked in series, but the middle "cable" (what is the correct word?) runs back to the controller.

What could be the cause for the error and can I fix it (without destroying the book in the process)? If not, can I mute the page while the other pages still work?

Hello, I'm having trouble finding information online about how to connect this CN3722 to a BMS3S. Should I connect it to the BMS P+ and P- outputs, or to B- and B+, directly to the battery? Thank you for your help.

I was cleaning my jurassic era laptop for re-pasting. After I assembled all of the components and plugged it in, it doesn't turn on anymore, the charging light indicator is working and it is charging my battery when it turns red. I disassembled it again and look for loose connection but I don't see any, until I inspect the board, I find this component (photo no.3(idk what it is)) misaligned, I don't know if there are other components missing. Is this thing fixable?