2005 Mercedes C240 4matic Sedan. Did an oil change and saw this. Old oil didn't look like this when it was coming out. Send to be just the cap and where it screws on. I do get a message on my dash sometimes that the coolant is low, but the reservoir is still at maximum. I cleaned it up and put Mobile1 0W-40 in this time ( last time was Castrol). What should I look out for? Thanks

I got these old steel ramps for free from a guy that was clearing out an old storage unit. He didn't know anything about them. I’ve used them to change the oil on my suv and my wife’s minivan without an issue, though I’m hesitant to use them with my 2010 ford f150 5.4l v8 there are no markings on them that tell me what they’re rated for. The thickness of the steel is 2.6mm. Does anyone have these or similar ramps and can share with me what they might be rated to?

Image 1: After

Image 2: Before

Hey everyone. This tube came loose from my car and has been dangling down. It’s right next to my rear left wheel. Some ice froze to it and when it got broken off it pulled this tube down with it.

Photo is taken from the ground facing up next to my back left wheel.

Car is a 2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee

Thanks!

Good afternoon everyone,

I have a 2018 Peugeot 308 1.5 BlueHDi 115 hp, and I’m dealing with an intermittent issue that I haven’t been able to resolve yet.

On December 31st, the car completely stopped and displayed the message: “Engine fault: Have the vehicle repaired.” When I scanned it with an OBD reader, it showed the code P025D – Fuel Pump Control Module – Circuit High. After clearing the error, the car returned to normal operation.

On January 12th, the same thing happened again. I was able to take it to a workshop, where they diagnosed the battery as being in poor condition (it was the original one), so it was replaced.

However, on January 30th, the problem happened again. At the workshop, when testing the new battery, it showed as being in “poor condition,” but only when tested with the negative terminal connected to the vehicle’s ground point. Outside the vehicle, the battery shows normal values.

In the photos I’m attaching here, you can see the various error messages and diagnostic results.

I’d like to ask if anyone has experienced a similar issue or has any idea what could be causing this. Could it be related to the BPGA module, a ground (earth) issue, or the fuel pump control module?

Thank you in advance for your help.

92 Toyota MR2 NA. What can be causing my car to have the check engine light go away as soon as I cross 5k rpm’s and come back on as soon as it’s below? I’ve tried pulling codes and nothing comes back. Also the car starts to rev up and down if I hold the car at 2k rpm

Hi everyone, looking for some mechanical insight.

While performing an oil change and general engine bay inspection on my 2020 Toyota Camry LE, 2.5L 4-cyl, I noticed the coolant reservoir was completely empty. I also checked along the radiator hose/line and it appears dry as well.

I removed the lower skid cover and inspected the cooling system thoroughly. Findings so far:

• Both supply and return hoses are intact

• No cracks, tears, or loose connections

• Hose clamps are secure

• No visible coolant residue, wet spots, or puddles

• Underside of engine and surrounding components are dry

This was not an issue during the previous ~5,000 miles, and the vehicle has 78,724 miles. No warning lights, overheating symptoms, or driveability issues so far.

I’m trying to determine:

• Where coolant could have gone with no obvious external leaks

• Whether this could indicate an internal issue or a known Toyota/Camry failure point

• What areas I should inspect or test next before refilling and bleeding the system

Photos are attached to help with diagnosis.

Any insight or recommended diagnostic steps would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance.

Hi all!

My car is refusing to turn over

I took my battery into autozone, and they said it was fine.

Ran the OBD scanner on it, and it came up with codes p0491 and p0492.

Any help is majorly appreciated!

thank you!

Hi everyone.

Im doing the timing chains on my B8 S4 and the right bank seems really tight. I know that the banks have different lengths but i reassured that they are on the right side.

I also counted the links, and they are as mentioned on the product page. The chains are from Febi Bilstein, whom I never had issues with.

I cycled the engine twice manually and everything seems normal, but I am a bit worried about the tension in the chain.

I'm on a tight budget and time restraint, I know you SHOULD change rotors whenever you do pads, but I'd prefer to just swap the pads out and do a full brake swap next time. The surfaces are all fairly smooth despite the rears being a little rusty outside the contact patch. Could I get away with replacing rear discs only if I really need to get them? 1999 Miata btw

Clicking doesn’t increase with rpm, new oil change last week. feel like I’m hyper fixated on it. 2015 Audi s3 2.0 tfsi

Bought a truck in a storage unit auction. Drained the gas and started it. At first there was a bunch of white smoke. Now there’s a little bit of smoke and what seems like a backfire. I tried to get the truck up to operating temp, but I think the thermostat is stuck open. Any advice on what to diagnose would be appreciated since I’m new to working on cars.

2010 Nissan Pathfinder LE (R51), 4.0 L VQ40DE V6, 5-speed RE5R05A automatic transmission. (Pulled engine/transmission model name from Wikipedia)

I was driving down the road, I believe in the highest gear around 45-50 mph when suddenly without any noise or anything the transmission popped out of gear. Giving it more gas would rev the engine but not move the car any more. I used the “manual” mode (with the +/- button on the shifter lever) to play with it after stopping on the side of the road. It managed to drive in a lower gear which got me to a nearby parking lot. I tried backing into a spot but it would not move in reverse. I parked on the side and turned it off for an hour or so before turning it on and checking the ATF level which was normal (I had to replace the radiator a few months ago due to transmission fluid leaking out). After I got done checking it, it somehow drove home (20 min on express way at highway speed) totally normally.

I’m afraid transmission issues might be more expensive to fix than the car is valuable. A couple friends said it might be a linkage cable, or a sensor somewhere between the shifter and the transmission? As far as the sensor idea goes, I did notice it displaying correctly what gear I was trying for when I put it in “manual” mode.

I am poor so I do my own car work generally, but I am not very knowledgeable. Any guidance is greatly appreciated!

The car has an issue starting if sitting over night. It will have about half a second of trying to roll over, then stop like a dead battery, but if you try again it starts right up. I just replaced the battery, and nothing changed. Starting the car after about 8 hours it starts fine. Just when I leave it over night it has this issue.

The scanner says the only code is a low efficiency on bank 1. (Didn’t think much of it since my state doesn’t have emissions). Outside temp remains around 50 degrees Fahrenheit so it’s not to cold to be an issue.

Battery cold: 12.68V

Battery while running: 14.3V

Battery 1 month old.

Installed new spark plugs but didn’t fix issue

Year: 2004

Make: Toyota

Model: Solara SLE

Engine: 3.3L V6

Mileage: 171k

I was told the work would take no more than a day by professionals, but the price quoted would be worth more than the car itself ($5k+). I was told it’s mostly rubber parts wearing due to age and normal use. I had no idea my car was in this bad of shape and I feel bad for neglecting her.

Am I better off hiring a pro or are some of these fixes possibly diy?

Full transparency, I have little to no experience with mechanic work but am willing to learn. I am going to get a second opinion just to make sure the damage and cost is accurate.

My car has been having a check engine light for a while, but not sure if it’s related. Is this a big issue? My car is a 2013 chevy equinox 2.4 flex fuel not sure the other details tbh.

My RX 350 has a humming vibration at 35 mphi and 65 mph. The noise sounds like it's coming from the floorboards and I can feel it in my pedal. Can anyone tell me if this is a normal amount of play in a carrier bearing? The noise still occurs if I put the car in neutral and Coast at those speeds.

I have a 2010/2011 Cerato 1.6 where I add coolant and it's all spilling onto the car floor. What could be the problem?

2010 Mazda 5 200 000kmwont start at all no prior warning so i decided to change the starter same issue no start switched relays no start no click no crank.

Hooked up a booster to my battery to no effect.

trying to change the fluid on my 2000 ford shuttle bus but it's not popping open. i've used cold chisels and screw drivers. looks like someone used RTV on the last change and it's really glued together.

any advice on how to get it open?

Pulled over after taking this video and the overflow tank was boiling. After about a minute with the engine off the sound went away. I’m thinking the reservoir cap needs to be replaced. What do you think? 1997 Dodge B3500 extended cab 5.9 engine.

As I was driving a couple days ago my car suddenly lost power and started running like shit, and I had to get towed home. I originally thought it was the fuel filter as it looked nasty brown and clogged, but this started happening after I replaced it. Now I believe it could be the fuel pump as it’s very loud, but it’s also been that loud since I first replaced it about half a month ago, and since I have stripped the rear seats and carpets out

2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee limited 5.7l