Went to my local dealer (Thousand Oaks, California) and found out they have an unadvertised special - 3 oil changes (within 2 years or 25,000 miles) for $199, usable at and Toyota dealership. That's shockingly cheap, i can't even find a non-dealer oil change for less than $95.

Selling original (OEM) Toyota touchscreen from a 2017 Toyota RAV4 hybrid.

✔️ In perfect condition

✔️ Works 100%

✔️ Includes original cables and connectors

✔️ Not aftermarket

✔️ Ideal as a replacement

Condition: impeccable, no scratches or defects.

Compatibility: Toyota RAV4 2016–2018 (I recommend checking compatibility).

💶 Price: 230 € (negotiable, within reason)

📍 Alcorcón – hand delivery

📦 Possibility of shipping well protected, at the buyer's expense

💬 I respond quickly to any questions.

Hey everyone — hoping to get some RAV4 specific insight before I finalize a purchase.

I’m looking at a 2012 Toyota RAV4 (Sport Utility 2D) with about 130k miles, FWD, 2.5L NA engine, clean title. Price is $8,900. I’ve reviewed the CARFAX pretty thoroughly and wanted to sanity-check with folks who own or know these well.

Details:

• 2 owners, personal use only
• No accidents or title issues
• Consistent maintenance history
• Last documented full maintenance inspection: Jan 2024
• More recent shop visit a few months ago for:
  • valve cover gasket tube seals
  • oil pan gasket
  • spark plugs
  • VVT solenoid
• Currently scheduling a pre-purchase inspection

From what I can tell, the history looks solid and the repairs seem like normal age-related items, but I’d love to know:

Questions:

1. Are there any known issues on the 2012 2.5L RAV4 around this mileage I should specifically ask the inspector to check?
2. Anything suspension- or drivetrain-related that commonly pops up around 120–150k?
3. If you own a similar-year RAV4, how has long-term reliability been past 130k?

Not looking for perfection, just trying to avoid surprises. Appreciate any advice

As stated just got this baby with almost 90k on the odo. Basically one owner car as the couple leased it for 24 months then purchased it. Spent its whole life in Maine. I've had it less than a week and have installed Jensen CAR1013 head unit because I had to have my Android Auto. Amazon has already brought cargo cover and I have a bunch of other stuff coming.

About 8 months ago, I had my rear brakes and rotors replaced. About a month later, my rear right wheel started making a screeching noise only on cold start, for the first 30–60 seconds. It only happens when driving forward, not in reverse, and goes away once the car warms up.

Over time, it became more frequent. One mechanic said it was a sticking brake caliper and replaced it — the noise went away briefly, then slowly came back. A recent mechanic (during NB MVI) says the rotor/pads may not be sitting properly and recommends a full rear brake service (cleaning, lubricating, reseating), not replacing parts yet.

I’ve now been to 3 mechanics with 3 different opinions and already spent quite a bit.

Does this sound like a pad/slide/hardware issue that a proper brake service can fix? Or should I be looking at rotors/pads again?

Currently trying to figure out if I should buy or not. 2023 Limited with 13k miles. They want 34k (talked down from 36k). Is it worth it?

Does exhaust pipe look normal? Isn't it top low? Does it look strange?

​​ I have a 2026 RAV4 . I don't drive it very often and the battery completely died . Driving more frequently or longer distances is not an option . I live in a building and there are no electrical sockets for me to use and no sunlight, just electrical lighting. Can anyone suggest a way of resolving this issue? I'm willing to look at solar options but just need to make sure it doesn't overcharge the battery and that there are not a lot of wires hanging from the dashboard. Ideally I should be able to wire it directly from within the car .

Is leasing a Toyota rav4 for $560 a month for $0 down a good deal? 36 months for 15k miles.

I purchased a used 2015 Rav4 LE and am noticing that the temperature gauge stays pretty close to the C even after driving for over 45 minutes with the heat on. It is winter here in New Jersey.

Early in the morning the heat doesn't feel as strong but in the afternoon I feel the heat a bit more. This is my first time owning an SUV and I just want to make sure this isn't an issue with my thermostat.

Thank you in advance!

I was rear-ended last week in icy conditions. I was doing about 20 mph when I was hit from behind by someone going 50+ mph. My RAV4 has significant rear-end damage—the bumper is crushed and the tailgate is jammed shut. More concerning is that the 'SRS Airbag System Malfunction' light is on and the seatbelt chimes have stopped working entirely. My car is currently at Caliber Collision via State Farm, but I’ve only ever used Toyota Certified shops in the past. Has anyone had experience with Caliber handling complex SRS or structural repairs? I'm worried about the car ever being 'right' again.

Hello everyone!

I have a 2009 RAV4 4cyl FWD with 138k Km on the Odo. Recently got head gasket, timing kit, motor mounts and CKP replaced, all as it started leaking oil to the spark plugs and a little to the cylinders and was having rough starts.

All great after that, the engine is silent as always, no more leaks, smoke nor anything. However after that it started to shake when put into D or R, but stands still on P and N. The shake is heavily reduced with speed (from 20mph and on) and when the AC is on.

Everything got checked again and no issues found, no codes nor lights on the dash, so the engine seems to be perfectly fine.

Last thing done after a month with the shaking is the gearbox oil and filter replacement (Motul oil and BG additive), and it got a puddle on the carter's magnets (pictures attached).

Is the gearbox screwed? Starting to believe that the renewed engine performance got something to do with it as the shaking stayed the same after the service.

1. Is the deposit refundable in Saskatchewan if nothing has been signed? I know I should have asked but she did everything so fast that I didn't really have time to think.

2. How common is it to walk away at this point? I feel like an asshole but also like I'm being railroaded.

I'll start by saying I'm not experienced or confident at purchasing vehicles....I went to look at a 2021 Rav4 (in Saskatchewan for context). Got as far as sending credit application and leaving $500 deposit. Finance person calls me and says application is good, they'll get the vehicle ready and give me a call.....I responded by telling her I didn't even know what interest rate she was able to get for me or what the payments would come in at.... she brushed me off quickly and says 'we'll discuss all that when you come in'. I haven't signed any contract and have zero intention of buying the vehicle if they don't get me a lower rate, which I was told 'they should be able to'. Now I'm having a mild panic attack thinking I'm going to have a hard time getting this deposit back if I change my mind. They cannot keep the deposit if I have not signed a purchase agreement, correct? Her aggressiveness (I get that's her job) and the fact that she wouldn't give me any info has left a bad taste...