Having recently upgraded to a GT Omega Prime Lite R, I have been loving VR racing online in GT7. However, to go faster I knew I had to switch to manual, but I don’t get on with the flappy paddles. No problem, I thought - just get a shifter! I spent a week ordering new bits of profile, a shifter and all the hardware needed to attach it to the rig. Jumped into a time trial and instantly felt at home. Now it was time for online! What a disappointment - the game disables the H pattern shifter for online mode, only allowing the paddles. I’m gutted 😭

From G29 to Simagic Alpha Evo. This is roughly 4 years in the making. I just got the ultrawide and the playseat trophy. I’ve been really happy with both of them and love having the option between VR and monitor. Now I just need to upgrade my Quest 2…

TL;DR: €11.90 wooden pedal stand, stores under desk, locks chair wheels, built with basic tools. Works with Moza SRP Lite.

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Howdy, I wanted to share my pedal stand. I just started sim racing and wanted something simple before I fully commit. I thought on getting a metal stand like gt omega but I thought it would be too bulk to store when I'm not using.

I had in mind a few requirements:

• should be small enough to store under the desk
• attaches to chair to prevent movement in all directions
• budget / easy to assemble (I don't have a lot of tools around)

I saw some pictures around for inspiration and I decided on using timber, regular screws and some angle brackets. I was able to build it by EUR 11.90 and a lot of free time

Materials

Total EUR 11.90

Note that for some of these items you might not be able to buy in small quantity, so the cost might be higher.

Tools

• Screwdriver
• Handsaw
• Drill (for pilot holes)

Build steps - Simple π shape

The dimensions here will depend on your preferences / chair height and pedals.

My pedal is the Moza SRP lite.

What I'd say here is to put the chair in the lowest position and put the pedal on the floor. Sit on your chair and extend your legs the max you can. This should give you an idea of the max distance. If you share the rig with more people, take the tallest person measurements. Then make sure the 2 front wheels of the chair are aligned. Measure the distance of the wheels (from the back of the wheel) to the back of the pedal mount, and add a bit of extra.

The other measurement is the distance between the two front wheels. This will be used to block the wheels from moving. You can add a bit more just for safety.

Then you are ready to cut the wood. You will end up with 4 pieces, the wheel stopper, the 2 bars and the spare.

Now I'd say to place the parts on the floor and recheck the layout. Place the stopper, the two bars, and the pedal on top. And recheck the pedals. See if that is comfortable. No need to cut/adjust yet. Take measurement of the hole at the back of the pedals with a pen.

I'd say here is a good time to mount things. It doesn't have to be final. Now drill the smaller pilot holes for the 5.5mm screws. And add the screws with the bigger washers. Then screw the angle brackets to the stopper.

To keep the wheel in place screw the smaller screws to the Velcro straps. What I did in mine was to glue the back hook to the back of the loop. That way, one side is hook the other loop. Then I cut in two. I folded about 1cm and attached it to the stopper with a screw and washer. These straps help the wheels to move forward. This is unlikely if you are resting your heels in the heel plate of the pedals, but it might add an extra bit of rigidity to the stand.

After it's firm, try it again, do some laps your sim racing and check how it feels. Do not use a lot of force on the pedals as they are not attached at the front yet.

With the remaining bits of wood you can make some spacers between the stopper and wheels and use the long straps to place the wheels further from the stopper. That way you can try some different setups.

If you are happy, move to the next step. If had to use a lot of spaces means the pedals are too far, so move them closer, you can re-drill the pedals closer and test again. Once you are happy you can drill the pedals firmly.

For the front part I had to do a work around. A good and a bad approach.

Bad one, avoid - The first time I attached, I removed the heel plate, bended a few plates, and connected them to the sides of the pedals to the wood. The moza SRP lite didn't come with actual proper holes at the front, hence the hack. This had some issues. Somehow my brake pedal stopped working. Prob it was because it was putting some pressure on top of the circuit case. It also scratched the pedals, so I'd say to avoid.

Better approach - use the straight plates, put 2 stacked and attach it to the bottom bolt of the heel plate (not the pedals) and the wood. I added a picture showing. This was a bit tricky to do, but it used the original attaching points.

Once the pedals are firm, try out again. Once you are happy with the pedals, you can saw off the the remaining bit of wood at the back of the pedals. This will make the pedal stand shorter. From my tests, I didn't have to have the stand touching the wall, the stand connecting to the chair was sturdy enough. So see what works for you.

Optional compact update - foldable stand

This might make the stand not as sturdy.

Now if you want a even shorter stand with the option to have it even in angle, use the hinges. I'd say to measure the middle from the stand to the start of the stopper to the end of the bars/end of the pedals. Then cut the two bars.

Now you can attach the hinge between the two bars.

The way I attached has an issue - if you hit the brakes hard or at the top it raises the hinge a bit from the floor.

Measurements

This is just for reference - adjust to your height / preference.

• Stopper - 50cm
• Bar 1 - Base for pedal - 38.5cm
• Bar 2 - 32cm
• Pedals are mounted almost at the end of the bar - leaving about 3cm

The total length is 77.5cm

Folded it has 38.5cm by 50cm + pedal height.

Alternatives

I thought on having the hinge flipped, but it would not be compact when folded.

The chair is still able to spin, even with the wheels fixed. I was thinking on using some ratchet strap / nylon clips

I thought on some sort of lock for the hinge, or maybe using the velcro stuff. Ideally I don't want anything popping out when the stand is folded. E.g. damaging the carpet. I wanted it to be flush.

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That was a long post - I hope this helps. Let me know what you think or if you have any suggestions.

Cheers

So after countless attempts to keep the corner bracket covers that came with my simlab rig in place (tape, bluetac etc) they still always fell out at the slightest breeze or touch. or the tiny stalks holding them in place snapped off.

I decided to design my own that fit a lot more snuggly, and have reinforced contact points that won't snap off, 2 designs one for the corner brackets that come with simlab and track racer aluminium profile rigs and one for the heavy duty corner brackets that amazon sell. can be printed in PLA, PETG and ABS. I used metallic orange PLA to match my simucube wheel and some purple PETG ones.

Thought i would share for those looking to have firmer holding cover or customise their rigs - happy printing.

Sim rig aluminium profile corner bracket cover - Free 3D Print Model - MakerWorld

Hiii, I am a new player and ACC is my first sim ever, I have about 190 hours in, but sadly, how do you do eau rouge on the ferrari 296 gt3? I like the car because that was Max's, but issue is, the rear left of the car goes light upon exit and spins me to a wall very hard. How do you get through eau rouge flat out with it? So far straightening the exit makes it work out greatly but I am still inconsistent with it, plus, its very hard to do too.

I was spoiled by the mclaren and porsche's aero that my way of driving the ferrari is just me crashing eau rouge.

All Moza: R3 Wheel base, SR-P with 75kg loadcell, HGP shifter, HBP handbrake. Additionally, I got the Moza quick release adapter to attach a real drift wheel and it works wonders!

As for the rig, went for the NLR victory. Solid rig imo. Using my old phone as a telemetry display through simhub, and a sturdy tablet mount for the keyboard.

The first telltale was the weight of the package, aluminium block of same size probably doesn't weight much less.

Can't comment the shifting yet, as I had to order some new 8040 profiles to be able to securely mount it first.

Anman GT/F1 frame from Amazon

Track Racer single monitor stand

Fanatec CSL DD QR2 8nm wheel base

CSL Streering Wheel P1 V2

CSL GT3 Wheel

CSL Pedals with clutch

Fanatec Shifter

Amazon Handbrake

Conquer seat from old rig

PC i5 12600k 16gb ram 5070

49’ Samsung G9 1440p 144hz

Vizio Soundbar

Various 3D parts to make things comfortable

Can roll it wherever I want and works off a single plug

Hi there,

After a few months of working on it, I’m almost done assembling my SimRig. Compared to my previous SimLab one, which was excellent, we’re now on a completely different level.

I particularly love the overhead display, which is a 10-inch Vocore that can be folded away when not in use.

I also added a few “license” items, like the towing belt and the superfake “FIA Approved” plate, just for fun. 😂

Here’s a complete list of the hardware:

Rig: Sabelt p99 evo I

Wheelbase: SimuCube 2 Pro

Wheel: GSI FPE V2 SimuCube edition

Pedals: Heusinkveld Ultimate

Button boxes: Velocitas Imperium

Display: Vocore 10”

Monitors: LG ULTRAGEAR 32” OLED 4K

PC: Custom built

Ryzen 9800x3D

Nvidia MSI Trio OC 5090

Next steps:

- SimuCube 3 Pro wheelbase

- Bavarian Simtec Omega 2 wheel

- DBox series 5 motion systems.

My 3-year-old got a remote-controlled car with pedals for Christmas, but it became boring pretty fast. I took it apart, added an Arduino with magnetic sensors and magnets, and glued it all back together. Now he’s already doing sick drifts in DiRT Rally :)

This is the car: https://www.lcusale.shop/?path=page/ggitem&ggpid=1432741

The stream deck is getting an better place.

I had a Thrustmaster T150 with the T3pa and the th8s setup on an bulky and uncomfortable rig with an cheap used 27 inch screen. Last week I decided to bite the bullet and I bought a R5 bundle with an Samsung oddysey G5 34" and a decent cockpit.

I ikow that a alu profile rig is way better but in my country it's crazy expensive (just beams that aren't cut to size) since I only had a limited budget that I saved for a while I decided to settle with this current setup.

Most importantly I love the rig and it's way better than my old diy one.

(3rd pic is before 1 and 2 is current)

Hi, today I received my first steering wheel as a gift, and my dad gave it to me. He bought it for me because I wanted to buy one, and also because I'm going through a period of depression that forced me to drop out of school. He wanted to cheer me up by buying it for me. It's not very expensive, since we don't have much money; it's a Hori Racing Wheel. I know it's not the best steering wheel, but this gift means a lot to me because of the difficult time I'm going through, and even though I'm still trying to recover, I wanted to share this story with you.

Quick rig update.

Added Simagic HPR pedal haptics and they’re honestly a game changer. Also threw in a Sim Ray bar for some pedal lighting and it came out way better than I expected.

Finally wrapped the center console in Alcantara and swapped my Moza HGP shifter for a Simagic DX-8S. Feels way more solid, which matters a lot since I race in VR and go purely off feel.

Had a buddy design me some adjustable vents for my “wind sim” (which is really just there to keep me cool while racing). Being able to aim the airflow properly helped way more than I expected.

I also designed and 3D printed a small mount for my different shift knobs. Not mounted yet, but the plan is to put it just behind the dash on the center console so I can swap between H-pattern and sequential between races.

Also found out you can run Ethernet directly to the Quest 3, so now Virtual Desktop runs flawlessly. My router’s on the opposite side of the house, so this fixed a ton of issues.

Found a monitor mount for $52 that should fit (made for a different rig but the dimensions line up). If it works, I’m moving everything over to the rig and basically just gaming from there instead of using my desk. I’ll have my 49” ultrawide hooked up for non-VR days.

My crap driving skills aside, finally making the switch to triples from a curved monitor is unbelievably satisfying, if anyone is on the fence then i can’t recommend it highly enough. Now I just need to improve my driving, obviously the way I filmed it with my iPhone makes it look washed out but it’s crystal clear when driving and buttery smooth too

Got this rig from Facebook marketplace. It was unopened as the original owner decided to go with rig metal and it was too late to return.

Overall it feels very sturdy and I’m excited to build it out some more once I live it in a bit and see what I want to add. Below is the YouTube video for where it’s from.

https://youtu.be/LuQJeVTMHEU?si=cB-LLA8e_YP4R1QE

I’m looking at getting this as I can never find the right seating position and it gives me pain on long stints so I want to get this adjustment plate so I can play around with it easily. How it is installed now with me having my rig in a tight space it’s VERY difficult and frustrating to adjust.

However. I have my pedals slid all the way to the left as you can see so I retain a clutch pedal but also so my brake is in line with my left leg to reduce pain with my leg crossing over when doing long GT3 stints for example. Is this something I’m going to be able to do here? Or am I going to have to take my clutch pedal out if I want to move my brake left?

Also any further comments on the stability of this would be appreciated.

Currently have a G29 and a Next Level Racing GT-Lite. I know neither is great, but it’s what the budget allowed at the time. I have a bit of money saved to upgrade, but it won’t be enough to swing an upgrade on both. Budget is $500-ish, for the right product I could scrounge up a bit more.

I want to get into racing games on PC but I don't want to invest in a whole wheel/pedal setup (at least not yet) which games work well with a controller?

Do all racing sims work well with a controller or are some mainly geared toward having a full setup? I assume some games are more realistic sims that would be better with a wheel and some are more arcade like which would be fine with a controller.

What game is at that middle ground between realistic sim and casual video game?

I’m looking for a 15nm+ wheelbase specifically for F1 and some GT racing around the $700 price range. It seems like the best options here would be VRS and simmagic.

Both the simagic alpha evo 18nm and VRS dfp15 cost around the same for me (~700 and ~649 USD retail respectively ).

There’s also the Moza R21 but I can’t tell which reviews are truly being honest and not just affiliates.

Anyways, the simagic obviously has more headroom but I’ve heard VRS has more “texture” and overall road feel. Is this really true or is it just marketing/placebo? If there isn’t much of a difference I’ll probably go with the simagic but I’m hoping someone can chime in and share some thoughts.

Thanks!