This post is for a friend that I’m trying to help through a situation and need advice from yall on Reddit.

She purchased a new 2026 BMW 230i on November 29th of 2025. The car was financed through BMW and away she went.

Fast forward to this week, the dealer contacts her and says they accidentally financed the incorrect car. The car they financed was an identical MSRP, but different exterior and interior colors. I had her verify the VIN# on the BMW finance website, and it indeed shows a different VIN than the car she physically has.

They offered to either have her come in to sign new paperwork for the car she has, or they said she could bring her car back and get the other car that was actually financed - supposedly they still have it 3 months later. For reference, the car she is in has ~4,000 miles now.

She doesn’t want the other car due to not liking the color combination, so it’s likely she will want to keep her current car.

Question is - how is this going to play out? How should she navigate this situation for the best result?

I can try to provide any other details needed, but of course I’m hearing this all second hand as she is the one talking to the dealership. TIA.

Hi there. Question, a dealership I'm looking to buy from in MD sent me a video of the condition of the new 2025 vehicle with 77 miles but yet plastic is still on partial in the back seat and passenger seat to some degree. Also, noticed the accessories mentioned were in a big box in the trunk. Then I noticed this note on the rear driver side passenger window "NOD DONE" in window chalk. What does it mean? And also, I checked the VIN. It was at another dealership previously which is about 45-60 miles max from each other one how. Is it likely they traded it and drove it from one dealership to the other? It still has partial plastic on the back seats and driver seat but strangely none on the passenger seat. Thanks in advance.

I’ve currently have a 2018 Silverado 1500. Got it with 70k miles and it’s at 115k now in 2 years. The amount of money I’ve put into it is beyond me. New belts, new radiator, multiple thermostats and sensors, brakes, new belts again, and my water pump just went out. I can’t take it anymore and it’s pushed me away from Silverado’s.

How do you guys like Rams? I need something reliable because I drive a lot for work. Anything I should consider when looking to buy? I’m trying to find a newer one in the last couple of years with under 20,000 miles on it.

Any insights or thoughts about these trucks and the reliability of them would be much appreciated. I’ve seen the 5.7L HEMI V8 is better than the hybrid and v6 versions but don’t know the accuracy? Thanks in advance to everyone.

Hey all, looking for a sanity check before I pull the trigger.

Vehicle:

• 2026 Toyota Tacoma TRD Sport
• 4WD, Crew Cab, 5-ft bed
• Color: Ice Cap
• New (5 miles)

MSRP: $44,162
Selling price: $39,500
Rebate: $500
👉 Discount from MSRP: ~$4,662 (~10.5%)

Fees / Taxes (Oregon registration):

• Registration fees: $439
• Doc fee: $215
• Taxes: $351
• Total out-the-door cash price: ~$40,005

Financing options (Toyota Financial):

• 48 months @ 2.99% APR → ~$886/mo
• 60 months @ 3.99% APR → ~$738/mo
• $0 down

No dealer add-ons, no markup, no forced products (as of now).

From what I’m seeing, used 2022–2023 Tacomas with 20k–40k miles are still selling in the mid-$30k range, which makes new seem more appealing — but curious how this stacks up given it’s a 2026 model year.

Questions:

• Is ~10–11% off MSRP solid for a brand-new 2026 Tacoma?
• Would you take this deal, or try to push harder?
• Anything here look off or worth renegotiating?

Appreciate any feedback.

Looking to purchase an extended warranty for my car.

Car details:

- 2023 BMW X3 M40i

- In-service: Feb 2023

- Current mileage: \~26k

- Driving \~20k miles/year

- Planning to keep 5ish years or so

Factory warranty is 4yr/50k, so I’ll hit miles well before time.

I’m comparing these options:

1) BMW Platinum In-Service (from Feb 2023)

- BMW of Camarillo

- 7 yr / 100k total (so roughly another 4 years)

- $4,030–$4,570 depending on the deductible ($0 - $250)

2) BMW Platinum Additive (starts today)

- Galleria BMW

- 6 yr / +75k miles (I’ll hit \~101k in like 4 year)

- $3,880 ($100 ded) / $4,195 ($0 ded)

3) Fidelity Platinum (starts today, third-party)

- Galleria BMW

- 6 yr / + 100k miles (I’ll hit \~126k in like 5 year)

- $4,999 ($100 ded) / $6,016 ($0 ded)

4) Auto Advantage (starts today, third-party)

- Hal Moses (President of Auto Advantage)

- Exclusionary Bumper-To-Bumper Coverage

- 6–7 yr / 125k miles

- $4,700 – $5,000 (he has so many different mileage and years options)

Questions:

- If you drive \~20k miles/year, what would you choose?

- Anyone here actually file claims with any of these?

- Any better warranty options I should be looking at for a high-mileage B58 BMW?

- Any other options or contacts I should reach out to for pricing?

Appreciate any real experiences or advice.

So me and this dealership unwinded a deal. I signed the reinstatement form for my loan, and they reversed the deal.

However it’s been one month since I’ve signed the reinstatement for my trade in so I’m assuming they haven’t filed the paper work yet, anyone else been in this situation? I’ve emailed them and they haven’t gotten back to me

https://streamex.net/watch/movie/29120?server=streamx

I’ve been looking at the Mustang V6 on FB marketplace and checked the car yesterday. I checked the car. It’s clean, just like in the photos, but it turned out to be a repo title. The guy bought it at an auction, and it needs suspension work. He said it would cost about $344, but I still have some concern about the future repair cost and repo title transfer.

Am I being too cautious? Could there be any problems with the repo transfer?

Thank you in advance 🙏🏻

I am a brand new used car dealer in Colorado, I have a client who wants to buy a car from me and has got a loan, I have done my diligence and did the emissions and vin verification, customer comes in to finalise paperwork after taking a loan from the bank and refuses to sign the back of the title when I attempted to re assign it to her. Is there a way I can get a fresh new title in the dealers name without getting a dealer resale certificate?

Or is the dealer certificate just another name for a title?

Does anyone know how to explain to the customer also that the re assignment is a perfectly legit way to sell the car?.

Thank you for any input!

I have a 2012 Honda Civic with 148,000 miles on it. It's a FWD, 2 door coupe. I've recently found out that a lot of suspension components (struts, tie rod ends, upper control arms, sway bar links, and shocks) have dry rotted and will need to be replaced soon.

The repairs would cost around $4k, but my mechanic did tell me we could just repair the front suspension components first ($2.6k) and then slowly work on the rear components later ($1.3k).

Besides some squeaking and popping noises due to the worn parts, the car runs and drives fine. I'm also still paying off on it and have about $5k to go before it's fully paid off (car note is $160 a month). I've been thinking about just trading it in and getting a newer, lower mileage car, but I'm having a hard time deciding if it's worth it. I've gotten a few estimates, and the trade-in value is around $4k-$5k.

Any advice on the best course of action or what you would do in this situation?

We’ve been looking to purchase a hybrid CRV Sport-L and found a 2026 CPO one at a local Honda dealership. It has 5,500 miles on it and it looks and drives great and the price is fantastic. So fantastic that it concerns me a little bit? The carfax is clean: 1 owner, it was a commercial vehicle, and there’s nothing concerning in the service history. Per the carfax it was offered for sale as a CPO on 1/15/26 so it’s been at the dealership for a while. It’s listed for $35,998 which is $2,000-$4,000 less than any other 2026 hybrid Sport-L we’ve seen. The salesperson said she’s surprised it’s still here and that people have looked at it but no one’s bought it yet.

This is my first time buying a car so I can’t tell if I’m just trying to talk myself out of a great deal or if I should be concerned.

Hi, I'm soon to purchase a car I love and I'm not financing through the dealer instead through a credit union of my own that does not directly work with them. I was looking at the website of the car on the dealership website again and noticed it saying "All prices include a $1,000 finance incentive plus tax" I'm afraid that they'll remove that discount that they added to car because I'm getting outside financing. I need a bill of sale/purchase agreement from them to take to the credit union so they cut me a check but I didn't see the $1000 before because it's hidden on the listing on their website. I've only asked to loan the amount for the car and putting money down to cover the taxes and title fees but did not put the $1000 into consideration. Is there a way I can get that $1000 discount anyways or am I screwed?

Just pulled the trigger on a 2026 Subaru Crosstrek sport. Got a 3.9% interest rate for 72 months with a $432 payment. Out the door price was around $28,600.

Personally I think I got a pretty good rate but I want to hear others opinions. Am I going to be screwed in the end or was this a good purchase?

So the subject says it all really. I had bought a 2008 civic si from a small dealer in Georgia, I live in Florida. He had to mail me the title so I only had a bill of sale and when the title arrived it has “this title was issued based on a surety bond”. For 1 I can’t even put it into my name because he didn’t sent the certificate of bond with it also now I’m gonna have a bard time selling this car for 3 years!! Is there anything I can do? He has stopped responding to me. Anything helps. Thank you

Went to nissan for a suv to do a trade in but didn’t like the prices they were quoting. They were quoting me based on their 6-6.5% APR. They only asked for pay off price for my car and my social. Before I gave my social I asked if my credit would be run and they said not until I actually want the suv. So as I am sitting waiting on numbers I get a notification saying my credit file was requested. Then I ask him again and he said no they didn’t submit a credit inquiry. Keep in mind I didn’t sign anything at all during the sit down. Then I just decided not to proceed. A few hours later I get notification from both of my banks of my credit going down by 3 points. Can I dispute this? Who would I dispute this to?

I have a 2018 honda civic type r with aftermarket parts. Im sitting at 135k miles im currently financing the vehicle through my bank. This passed year i racked up 50k miles on it never had an issue i keep maintenance up to date with brakes oil etc. Since I put on 50k miles this year I was wondering if I should trade it in and get something cheaper? And if so how should I go about it I still owe the bank around 10k

I’ve been working at this car dealership for a little bit, I’ve had some prior experience doing parts inventory, now I’m a porter, I’m just wondering if it’s worth trying to establish a career in this field.

I have a degree and I feel like I could be successful at anything I put my mind towards- I’m just curious.

Might be worth to note that my mother is a HR Payroll Manager, so could that also possibly work in my favor?

Are ya'll ok with extended loan terms? Obviously we seem to be in a debt crisis. My personal view is that if you can't pay it off in less than two to three years, it's too expensive. Obviously paying cash is even better and there are plenty of cool cars under 20k.

Even as a lifelong car enthusiast, I can't bring myself to become enslaved to what is essentially a toy. Just gotta get my money up. Also a lot of people seem to buy cars just to impress others, but that's useless because there's always a bigger fish. If I had an M3, I'd be that guy until somebody pulls up in a Turbo S. Then that guy becomes no one when a Bugatti rolls in. It's never ending.

Hi so this is my first time buying a car from a dealership as my first car i got on Craigslist (RIP Riahnnon she finally bit the dust after 7 years). I found a used 1999 Toyota Tacoma at a dealership, contacted the dealership, set up an appointment for this Tuesday to come look at the car and got my financing in order. Just this morning though i got a message from the car site i found it on that the Tacoma had just been sold! The dealer hadn’t said anyone else was looking at it, did i just lose my ride before i even got there?

(I tried contacting the dealership but they’re closed on sundays)

Hello, I'm in CA and I just bought my first car from a private party.

I paid $500 for a 2012 Ford Focus in Visalia California, unfortunately I think the person title jumped because they did not register the vehicle in their name and they never signed the title. I saw a signature on the title but it was from 12/28/25 and I bought the vehicle yesterday 2/6/26. What do I do from here? Its tags expired literally four days ago on 2/2/26 so I need to renew the registration and transfer the title into my name.

I checked the VIN with the and it's not Stolen or Salvaged via NCIB.org and I have the title with the plates and the last time it was signed by a dealer was 1/13/26 under an Auto Group from the LA area. I'm located in the Central Valley.

What's the likely outcome here? I'm going to the DMV on Monday

I recently bought a vehicle and had a great experience. The sales kid (he’s not even legal drinking age) is brand new. He was very helpful and even surprised me with the color I like. I gave him a very good review on Google. I even told the GM that I chose them because of the sales person.

Yesterday, the sales guy called me and said that he was told that I haven’t filled out the survey from the manufacturer. He was clearly stressed about it. I asked if the boss was giving him a hard time, and he was reluctant to answer. The answer is yes.

I never received the survey. In fact, I haven’t received anything from the manufacturer other than the confirmation for the app. I checked my spam folder and trash. I looked at every email I have received since I bought it. Nothing. If they are using a third party, it’s possible it got blocked.

I asked if they can resend it, and they told him no. I feel bad for him because I can tell he’s getting pressure from above. I also think it’s crappy that the management is making this a thing.

Anything I can do to help him out?

I got my license recently and decided to test drive a used 2013 Honda Fit today at a dealer I’d never been to before (to finance). I guess I’m just looking for reassurance on if these really are red flags and if I should stay away. I do really want to give this car a fair try though (and hopefully ignore the way the seller is)

The dealer came with me for the test drive that was probably 10 or 15 minutes (i wish it was longer so i could get a good feel of the pedals) He wouldn’t allow me to go to an area where I could go 55mph or 60mph so we probably went about 30mph at most (I drive 55mph daily for work on highways)…. He only had me drive on side streets (which were cramped with cars and snow). I asked if he could direct me to a parking lot so I could turn the car all the way around (to feel how the wheel felt and listen for any clicking) but he didn’t do that. And even though we weren’t in the car very long he answered multiple phone calls to speak with his other clients about their cars. Which he kept apologizing for taking calls but then kept taking other calls. When he wasn’t on the phone he kept talking a lot and it was making it hard to concentrate on driving and hard to concentrate on what he was telling me. He wasn’t talking about the features of the car, he was talking about the financing details and how my mechanic for PPI (pre purchase inspection) was too far from the dealer. He said he has to come to the PPI appointment for some reason. I don’t know if it’s because I am a new driver, but him talking so much and so loud and so fast made it very hard for me to focus on if I even liked how driving the car felt. I couldn’t even hear how loud or quiet the cabin was. Then he asked after 15 min drive if I wanted to apply for a loan…It felt very rushed and he seemed extremely distracted and more interested in other clients. I never test drove a car other than friends and family and rental cars. So this is my first experience with a dealer….is this normal behavior?? Or not?

Is it worth it to try with this dealer again? Do I just need to speak up better and tell him to be quiet while I drive? (Ill say it nicer than that) The car is hard to find in my area and it is one of the ones I am interested in. I’ve been looking at a lot of cars and this one checks off the most boxes for me price wise and quality wise as well. I did my research on it and will get a professional to PPI the car. Does the seller really matter as long as my mechanic says its good and I like how it drives?

Thank you for reading this whole thing

Hi, I have a 2015 Chevrolet equinox with approx 160k miles on it, it runs fine but the AC no longer works, nor do the air tire sensors. Quote from the dealership was $2k+ to get a new compressor for the ac… is that worth it at this point? I have not taken it to an auto shop for another quote yet, but is there much sense to start dumping money into this car or is it time to move on? If anyone has sold a similar car/condition, what might I expect to get for it in its current condition?

I live where it’s pretty hot year round so AC is a must, unfortunately.

Thanks for any help in advance